Table of Contents:

1. Introduction
2. Combat Rules and Specifications
1. Rapier Combat Equipment Specifications
1. General
2. Protective Equipment (Armor)
3. Standard Offensive Equipment (Weapons)
4. Standard Defensive Equipment
5. Non-standard Equipment and/or Equipment Use
2. Conventions and Rules of Rapier Combat
1. Conventions of Rapier Combat
2. Individual Combat Rules for Rapier
3. Melee Rules for Rapier Combat
3. Certification Procedures
1. General Regulations
2. Disciplinary Action
3. Types of Rapier Participant
1. Scholar
2. Free Scholar
3. Journeyman
4. Provost
5. Guild Master of Fence
4. Rapier Administration
1. Rapier Marshalate Organization
1. Kingdom Rapier Marshal
2. Principality Rapier Marshal
3. Kingdom marches Marshal
4. Branch Rapier Marshal
5. Rapier Marshals in Charge
2. Rapier Events
1. Equipment Inspection
2. Conduct of Combat
5. Appendices
1. Optional Conventions of Rapier Combat
1. Changes in Counting Conventions
2. Tip Cuts
2. Tests
1. SCA Standard Fencing Armor Test (SFAT)
3. SFAT acceptable materials
4. Tip Buildup
5. Fibreglass Blade Construction
1. Method One
2. Method Two
6. Charter of the Royal Guild of Fence of the West Kingdom

1. Introduction

Period rapier combat has been a part of the SCA since the beginning. Like armored combat it has evolved and improved over the last 30 years in authenticity and safety.

These rules are a proposal for safely recreating period rapier techniques within the West Kingdom of the SCA. They are carefully crafted to use equipment and techniques that reflect the current understanding of period activities while using 20th century materials for maximum possible safety.

This proposal has been designed to be as comprehensive as possible, allowing for safe and enjoyable re-creation of rapier combat, while providing proper regulation of the activity as well as compatibility with the rapier combat styles in most other Kingdoms.

2. Combat Rules and Specifications

1. General
1. No piece of equipment may have rough, angular or sharp edges which could cause bodily injury or damage other equipment, nor may it be constructed so as to damage other equipment, such as break blades, entrap a tipped blade, tear protective equipment or rip cloaks, etc.
2. All equipment shall be in good repair so as to resist tearing, puncture, breakage or other failure.
3. All equipment shall make an attempt at being period in appearance.
2. Protective Equipment (Armor)
1. Definitions:
1. Penetration Resistant Material - material or a combination of materials that will withstand four hard thrusts from a broken epee blade without significant failure. Four layers of trigger cloth (heavy poplin, 35% cotton and 65% polyester) or 4 ounce (113 g) leather are examples of penetration resistant materials. Kevlar is an example of unacceptable material due to it being banned SCA wide.
2. Resistant Material - material or a combination of material which is resistant to tearing during normal combat stresses such as being snagged by an unbroken blade. One layer of trigger cloth, broadcloth or sweat pants are examples of resistant materials. Nylon tights, stockings and cotton gauze shirts are examples of unacceptable materials.
3. Resilient Padding - material or combination of materials which absorbs some of the force of a thrust; one-quarter inch (5-6 mm) of closed-cell foam or the equivalent. The standard padded bib of a modern epee or three-weapon mask may meet this requirement, depending on construction.
2. General
1. The protective equipment shall have no gaps. Bare skin may not show at any point.
2. There shall be no holes through which a blade may penetrate so as to slide under the layers of protective equipment. Any button hole, lacing hole or other opening that could admit the entry of a blade shall have a protective placket underneath which overlaps the join by at least 3 inches (75mm) to prevent a blade from sliding inside. All adjacent sections of protective equipment shall overlap by 3 inches (75mm) in the combatant's extended position.
3. Additional protective equipment (beyond what is described herein) may be used as long as it does not interfere with the proper acknowledgment of blows.
3. Head, Neck and Throat
1. The head and face shall be protected by a modern (12 kilogram) fencing mask, such as an epee mask, three weapon mask, or equivalent. Fencing masks rated only for foil use are prohibited. The mask must be securely affixed to the head so that it cannot easily be dislodged during combat. Combatants are required to get their mask tested annually. This test is to be performed with a commercial 12 kg mask punch device.
2. The back of the head, the neck and the throat must be covered with a coif or hood made of penetration resistant material. There shall be no gaps or visible skin showing on the head, neck and throat with the head in any position normal for rapier combat.
3. The throat shall be additionally protected by resilient padding. The use of a metal gorget padded on the interior with a minimum of 1/4 inch of closed cell foam (or equivalent) is required when using schlagers.
4. Torso and Limbs
1. The torso is defined to be the body trunk area including the complete groin, chest, back, abdomen and sides up to the armpits, shall be covered with penetration resistant material.
2. The sleeves of a fencing doublet must be securely sewn into the body of the garment to prevent the possibility of a blade entering the armpit.
3. The torso of a fencing doublet for Schlager fencing must consist of the equivalent of two layers of penetration resistant material. That is 8 layers of trigger cloth or cotton drill as previously described in the section on general standards.
4. For additional safety it is recommended that combatants wear a plastron ( a garment that covers the armpit, arm and chest on the weapon side) to prevent a blade that penetrates a seam in the jacket penetrating the chest
5. Legs must be protected by trews, breeches or hose constructed from resistant material.
6. All male combatants shall wear rigid groin protection i.e., a hockey, soccer, karate, or baseball cup worn in a supporter or fighting garment designed to hold the cup in place. Any opening in the groin protection large enough to admit a blade must be rigidly covered, i.e. securely taping pennies over the opening.
7. All female combatants shall wear additional groin protection made of resilient padding.
8. Female combatants are reminded that the chest is a prime target area and are encouraged to wear additional breast protection, such as standard fencing metal breast protectors.
5. Hands and Feet
1. The hands must be protected by gloves. The body of the gloves must be made of leather, but the cuffs may be made of penetration resistant materials. The gloves must overlap any sleeve openings by at least 3 inches  (75mm) at full extension and bend.
2. The feet must be completely covered by shoes or boots that meet the standards for resistant material. They must overlap the leg covering or skirt/kilt by at least three inches, through a typical range of motion.
3. Standard Offensive Equipment (Weapons)
1. General
1. Standard offensive weapons are:
1. Fiberglass weapons with blades more than 25 inches (635 mm) in length.
2. Fiberglass daggers with blades less than 25 inches (635 mm) in length.
2. Advanced offensive weapons (Journeyman and above) are:
1. Schlager weapons with blades at least 35 inches (890 mm) in length.
2. Flexi-daggers with blades not to exceed 18 inches (470 mm) and not to exceed 1 pound (454 gm) in weight.
3. All weapons must have a straight grip. Orthopaedic and pistol grips are not permitted. Where verifiable medical reasons exist, the combatant may apply to their Branch Rapier Marshal for an authorisation to use an orthopaedic grip. The Marshal  shall note this exemption on their authorization card. The Branch Rapier Marshal must inform the Kingdom or Principality Rapier Marshal of the exemption within 30 days.
4. Foil, Saber and Epee blades may not be incorporated into weapons which are to be used in rapier combat within the West Kingdom.
2. Weapon Construction
1. Rapiers
1. The rapier blade shall be a schlager blade or approved fiberglass blades. Metal blades shall be of commercial manufacture, Fiberglass blades must be constructed in accordance with these rules. All other blade types are prohibited.
2. Schlager blades shall be of at least 35" (890 mm). The use of the longer blade lengths should be encouraged, with the shorter blades restricted to combatants who would be physically disadvantaged if forced to use the longer weapons.On a schlager the tip shall be affixed as specified in Appendix D.
3. Fiberglass weapons shall conform to the following standards:
• The weapon shall have a blade constructed solely of fiberglass rod or equivalent and fiberglass and duct tapes.
• The weapon shall have a flexing resistance no greater than a standard epee.
• When used as the primary weapon (single rapier) it must be at least 37 inches (940 mm) in length, shorter weapons may only be used in the offhand.
• The blade shall be wrapped in vinyl duct tape (not cloth backed), or such other tape as will not tear readily. Fiberglass strapping tape may be used in constructing the weapon, but must be completely covered by the outer wrapping tape.
• Points must be covered with plastic or rubber tips which must be affixed in such a way that they will not come loose during normal combat. Points should be brightly colored, so that their absence is readily apparent.
• The blade must be capable of easily bending to 90 degrees and show no signs of failure or fatigue when so flexed.
• Tips should not exhibit excessive wear or abuse.
1. Daggers
• Metal Bladed Daggers - The flexi-bladed dagger blade shall be a flexible steel blade such as that sold by American Fencers Supply. All other metal bladed daggers or any flexi-bladed dagger without the standard flattened or rolled metal tip, are prohibited.
• The length of the blade from guard to tip may not exceed 18 inches (47 cm).
• The entire weight of the flexi-bladed dagger may not exceed 1 pound (454 gm).
• The tip shall be covered with a plastic or rubber tip, which must be affixed in such a way that it will not come loose during normal combat.
• Tips should be brightly colored, so that their absence is readily apparent and have a cross section no less than 3/8".
• Tips should not exhibit excessive wear or abuse.
• Fiberglass Daggers - Where fiberglass weapons are used the following construction standards will apply:
• No Dagger will have a blade longer than 25 inches (635 mm).
• The Dagger will be constructed in the same manner and from the same materials as fiberglass rapiers (see section 2. Rapiers).
• The tip shall be covered with a plastic or rubber tip which must be affixed in such a way that they will not come loose during normal combat.
• Tips should be brightly colored, so that their absence is readily apparent and have a cross section no less than 3/8".
• Tips should not exhibit excessive wear or abuse.
3. Safety Checklist

All offensive and defensive weapons must fullfil the following basic safety requirements. If you can answer NO to any item in this checklist your weapon should not be used until the problem is rectified.

1. Are all the components of the weapon properly connected together so as to prevent accidental disassembly during normal combat?
2. Does your weapon have a functional hand guard or quillons or both? If quillons are used they shall be no longer than 12 inches (30 cm) from tip to tip and not extend more than 6 inches (15 cm) from either side. The ends of the quillons shall be blunted in a sufficient manner as to prevent bodily injury or damage to other equipment. Closed guards that do not allow the tip of a blade to become entrapped (such as a bell guard, or simple cross quillions) are recommended for use with fiberglass weapons. Swept hilts and other open guards are permitted if they are acceptable to both combatants.
3. Are you using a straight grip (such as a French or Italian grip) or another grip that can be documented as period? Or do you have a medical authorisation permitting you to use an Orthopaedic or pistol grip?
4. Does your weapon  have a blunted point covered with a standard plastic or rubber tip, or the equivalent with a minimum cross section of 1/2" (12 mm)for schlager and 3/8" (9 mm) for fiberglass rapiers?
5. Is your blade tip firmly affixed with glue and tape to prevent accidental removal during combat?
6. Is the covering tape on the tip a brightly contrasting color so that its absence is readily apparent?
7. The rubber tip on your rapier is clean and in good condition.
8. Your schlager blade is of commercial manufacture, and is unmodified?
9. Your schlager blade is substantially free of rust, pits, nicks and free of cracks, breaks or sharp edges which may effectively impair it's strength or flexibility, or could cause cutting or tearing?
10. Your blade is free of bends, kinks, or twists? Schlager blades may have slight curve in the them.
4. Standard Defensive Equipment
1. General
1. The standard defensive equipment shall consist of buckler, baton, cloak, and parrying gauntlet; all other defensive equipment shall be considered non- standard.
2. Buckler
1. Bucklers may be of any shape save where the design edge could catch or trap a blade. Bucklers should be made of lightweight materials. One-quarter inch plywood or sole leather or the equivalent is recommended.
2. The size shall not exceed 20 inches (500 mm) in any direction. The edges shall be covered to prevent splintering or sharpness.
3. All protuberances (nuts etc) shall be padded and taped.
3. Baton
1. Batons can be virtually any item used to parry an opponents blade. Examples of batons include, but are not limited to: Walking Sticks, Canes, Chair Legs, Scabbards, Riding Crops.
2. Batons may be of any reasonable length but should not exceed 1.5 pounds (680 gm). The sole judge of what is or is not a reasonable length shall be the Rapier Marshal in Charge.
3. Where a scabbard or other open ended item (i.e. tube) is used as baton the end facing the opponent shall be capped, plugged or otherwise sealed.
4. Cloak
1. The size, shape and weight is left to the discretion of the combatant, so long as it is recognizable as a cloak or handkerchief and not a flail, whip, etc.
2. The weight and any weighting or stiffening must not pose any risk to an opponent.
3. There shall not be any metal or rigid material in the construction of the cloak, except for fasteners near the neck area where the combatant grasps it.
4. If the cloak is to be thrown, no metal is allowed at all.
5. Parrying Gauntlets
1. Parrying gauntlets shall be a glove of leather or equivalent resistant material that completely covers the entire hand and wrist area. They are used to simulate a chain mail gauntlet.
2. A parrying gauntlet may, but is not required to, have an additional protective covering over the palm of the hand made of one-quarter inch (6 mm) or smaller chain mail or heavy leather to more accurately represent the actual equipment that would have been used.
5. Non-standard Equipment and/or Equipment Use
1. General
1. Equipment that has been improvised, modified or is not previously defined as standard in these rules is considered non-standard. The use of any equipment, standard or otherwise, in a fashion which is not defined as the normal use of that equipment is considered non-standard equipment use.
2. The Rapier Marshal in Charge shall specifically authorize all non-standard equipment and non-standard equipment use. Approval is limited to that competition, unless it is previously revoked by the Rapier Marshal in Charge.
3. Non-standard equipment or equipment use must not pose a greater risk of injury or equipment damage than standard equipment or equipment use.
4. Only consenting opponents may face non-standard equipment or equipment use, and then only after they have been made aware of the nature of the variation. Any combatant may, without dishonor, penalty or forfeiture of the bout, reject a bout against any non-standard offensive or defensive equipment. In consideration of this, non-standard offensive or defensive equipment and/or equipment use is not recommended for tournaments (since if a combatant rejects a bout against non-standard offensive or defensive equipment in a tournament, then that combatant must be allowed the win of that bout, unless the opponent with the non-standard equipment is willing to re-equip with standard equipment).
5. Non-standard equipment shall be constructed as to be recognizable as the original item.
2. Offensive Equipment (Weapons)
1. All non-standard offensive equipment shall be constructed of any normal, safe material conforming to the following rules for non-standard defensive equipment.
2. The offensive (attacking) part of the equipment shall be constructed exclusively of cloth, foam, tape, or the equivalent, and must not contain rigid material. The offensive part shall provide progressively resistant "give" without allowing contact with any underlying rigid material.
3. Note: The use of fiberglass rod in the construction of the offensive part of a piece of equipment is allowed, but such pieces of equipment are to be treated as unusual weapons.
4. Experimentation with offensive equipment not allowed under this Code of Rules is permitted only with the specific permission of the Kingdom or a Principality Rapier Marshal. Such permission may be granted for a limited period of time only and is subject to a report and/or recommendation on the item of equipment being tested.
3. Defensive Equipment
1. Non-standard equipment includes hats, tankards, and articles of clothing, or other items that might be used for parrying in combat.
2. They shall be constructed of any normal, safe material. They may not have sharp corners or rough edges that could cut or leave splinters. They may not be constructed of any material that could shatter or break during normal combat.

1. Conventions of Rapier Combat
1. The entire body is a legal target area.
2. For the purpose of these rules the following definitions will apply:
1. Arm - The arm is deemed to include that part of the limb between the center of the shoulder joint and a point approximately 3 inches (76 mm) above the wrist.
2. Hand - The entire hand to a point 3 inches (76 mm) above the wrist.
3. Leg - The leg is deemed to include that part of the limb between the groin and a point approximately 3 inches (76 mm) above the ankle.
4. Foot - The entire foot from the tips of the combatant's toes to a point approximately 3 inches (76 mm) above the ankle.
3. For the purpose of calling blows, all combatants are considered to be wearing light clothing only; shirt, hose, skirts, etc. No blow shall be assumed to have its effects negated or lessened due to the clothing or armor being worn (unless the combat is part of an armored scenario).
4. Each combatant shall call the blows that he/she receives.
5. Valid Attacks
1. A valid thrust is an attack with the point of the offensive weapon which is firm enough to cause direct pressure to be transmitted through the garments and against the body. It is only necessary to have minimal (less than 1 inch [2.5 cm]) flex of the blade and should not exceed 2 inches (5 cm) of flex when fiberglass blades. A schlager should not have to flex at all.
2. A valid thrust is not negated or lessened due to sliding off after solid contact with the tip of the blade.
3. A valid draw cut is to place the edge of an offensive weapon against an opponent and slide the blade while maintaining noticeable and constant pressure against the opponent's body. At least 12 inches (30 cm) of the rapier blade or most of the dagger blade must be used. As with a thrust, only minimal, but noticeable, pressure need be maintained. Merely laying the blade on the opponent without pressure or movement is insufficient.
4. The so-called "tip cuts" are not a valid draw cut.
5. Saber cuts, slashing, hacking or chopping are illegal.
6. Valid Blows:
1. A blow to the head, neck, torso, groin, brachial artery (armpit) or femoral artery (inner thighs) shall be considered a killing blow.
2. A blow to a limb causes the loss of that limb.
3. The hand is considered a separate limb from the arm.
7. A kill occurs instantaneously and therefore no new offensive actions can be started. Motion begun prior to the kill may be completed.
8. A bout shall be won by rendering one's opponent "disinclined to continue", for whatever reason. The opponent may concede the bout because of a killing blow, because of a disabling wound or series of wounds, because of "accumulated blood loss", or even because of any small scratch, depending upon agreements previously made by the combatants or the scenario in which they are competing.
9. A blade may be parried by the off (non-weapon) hand or arm. It may be pushed out of the way at any point along it's length. Grasping or sliding a hand or arm along the blade will result in the loss of the hand or arm unless a parrying gauntlet is  being used.
10. A combatant is considered armed so long as one offensive weapon is retained.
11. When disarmed (not holding any offensive weapon) a combatant must be allowed to yield, to recover his/her closest weapon, or accept a safe, honorable loss of the bout at the discretion of their opponent. Otherwise, the Provost or Guild Master supervising the bout shall call a hold until one of the above conditions is met.
12. The following conventions shall be used if a combatant is using the specified defensive equipment:
1. Parrying Gauntlets: The protected (armored) part of the parrying gauntlet shall not be considered to extend farther up the arm than the wrist bones.
2. Parrying gauntlets may be used only to parry an opponent's weapons. ii. The hand must not close around the parried blade nor grasp it in any fashion, however, sliding along the blade will not cause loss of the hand.
3. The block of a straight thrust will be considered to have disabled the hand, since chain mail would not necessarily stop such a thrust from a rapier.
4. Cloaks and other unarmored defensive equipment (hats, etc.): These may be used only to parry an opponent's offensive equipment.
5. The block of a straight thrust will be considered to have penetrated through to the body, if any, which was behind it, since the unarmored parrying object would not stop such a thrust from a rapier.
6. Cloaks with a drop length greater than 36 inches from the shoulder may not be thrown.
2. Individual Combat Rules for Rapier
1. Rapier combat falls outside of some of the rules of traditional SCA armored combat. It is intended to re-create the rapier fighting styles of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries.
2. Each rapier combatant is required to abide by Rules of the Lists and Conventions of Combat of the Society for Creative Anachronism, Inc., and this Code of Rules for Rapier Combat in the Kingdom of the West.
3. Each combatant, recognizing the possibilities of physical injury to him/herself in rapier combat, shall assume unto him/herself all risk and liability for harm suffered by means of such combat.
4. Engaging in rapier combat with the deliberate intent to inflict injury on an opponent is forbidden.
5. All combatants must maintain control over their tempers at all times.
6. The use of Fleche (running at an opponent with rapier extended) or similar attacks is prohibited.
7. A combatant may decline any challenge without dishonor, and without specifying a reason. In a tournament this may result in forfeiture of a bout.
8. Combatants may reject the use of a particular weapon by an opponent, should they deem the weapon unusually dangerous, or it is a non-standard piece of equipment. Before rejecting the use of a standard item however, the opinion of the Rapier Marshal in Charge should be sought.
9. All rapier combat shall be done in the round, not strip-style in a line. The one exception is if a combatant has been put on the ground, such as by loss of a leg. In that case the mobile combatant may not "corkscrew", or require the grounded combatant to turn more than approximately 120 degrees.
10. There shall be no combat between rapier combatants and SCA armored combat fighters.
11. Combat between rapier combatants and combat archers may only take place when the Kingdom Earl Marshal or Principality Knight Marshal has, in consultation with the Kingdom or Principality Rapier Marshal approved a set of rules governing such combat.
12. No equipment, other than capes or handkerchiefs, may be thrown, except in controlled actions to remove the equipment from the field.
13. Combatants may engage only when the Provost or Guild Master of Fence who is supervising the bout has received verbal acknowledgment of readiness from each combatant and has instructed them to begin.
14. Unsafe or illegal conduct is prohibited. A supervising Provost or Guild Master of Fence shall, as necessary, warn or remove from the field any combatant whose conduct is considered unsafe or in violation of the rules. Examples include, but are not limited to:
1. Grasping, grappling, tripping or striking the opponent with one's hand or body. This does not include incidental and fleeting contact, such as a break from a corps-a-corps situation or sweeping motions intended to clear the opponent's weapon from the line of attack or to prevent a draw cut.
2. The use of excessive force, whipping or chopping at an opponent, or the unsafe use of equipment.
3. Intentionally striking an opponent with any part of an offensive weapon not designed for it; or with any equipment not legal for offensive actions.
4. Deliberately grasping or trapping an opponent's equipment, against the body.
5. Problems with the acknowledgment of blows.
6. Deliberate misuse of the rules to gain advantage over an opponent, such as intentionally falling or dropping weapons when pressed.
3. Melee Rules for Rapier Combat
1. Melee Rapier combat is forbidden in the Kingdom of the West
4. Halting Rapier Combat
1. Holds - A call of "HOLD!" means to stop ALL activity instantly; stop maneuvering, cease attacking, stop talking (specifically, no tactics or strategy shall be discussed).  Masks should not be removed.  Combatants should assume a non-aggressive stance, hold their weapon/s by the blade and not move unless directed to do so by the Provost or Guild Master supervising the bout.
2. Holds may be called by anyone for one of the following reasons:
1. Broken weapons
2. Broken or damaged armor
3. Injuries
4. A combatant falling or about to step out of the field.
5. Violations of the rules.
6. A combatant or Provost or Guild Master of Fence desires to request a calibration (a question concerning a blow). Note that a request for calibration can occur at any time during a hold.
7. Loss of temper
8. Terrain
3. Once a hold is called, it can only be lifted by a Provost or Guild Master. The supervising Provost or Guild Master will warn the combatants to prepare to continue by commanding ALL Rise", at which time all who are able to do so will stand back up. Combat will resume with the cry of "LAY ON".

3. Certification Procedures

I. General Regulations

 
1. The applicant must provide his/her Society and Legal names, and a mailing address by which he/she may be contacted, and complete a waiver or indemnity (whichever is applicable to their region) for the Lists files.
2. The result of the test  is not considered valid unless the Kingdom or, if applicable, Principality Rapier Marshal receives completed authorization information no later than 30 days after the date of the authorization. It is the responsibility of the Guild Master or Provost administering the Prize to ensure that such information is promptly sent.
3. A temporary card will be issued at the time of the test, which certifies the new rank of the applicant, and which is valid for 30 days from the test date.
4. Each qualification must be renewed every two years. Renewals will be conducted by performing a repeat of the test appropriate to the qualification level in the same manner as when applying for the rank for the first time.
5. All cards bearing certifications for ranks and qualifications within the Guild must be signed and dated in ink, and the name of the qualifying Provost or Guild Master written clearly under the signature.

 

1. failing to adhere to the standards of weapon construction, personal behaviour and conduct during combat described in these rules,
2. failing to obey the legitimate instructions of the senior members of the Guild in regards to the safe conduct of rapier combat,
3. people engaging in combat with weapons for which they have not received the appropriate qualification or Guild Rank.
4. behaviour that lead to an injury requiring medical attention.

II. Disciplinary Action

1. Combatants who knowingly enter combat with previously failed equipment (masks, weapons, armor) shall have their Rank in the Guild suspended for a period of not less than one year, subject to review by the Rapier Marshalate and the Royalty.
2. A person who has been suspended in their Rank may not participate in Rapier activities at any level until their suspension has expired or been overturned after an appeal.
3. Any Provost or Guild Master of Fence who knowingly allows a combatant to engage in combat with any equipment that does not pass safety standards shall be suspended from their position in the Guild for a period of not less than two years, subject to review by the Rapier Marshalate and the Royalty. These revocations may be appealed to the Kingdom/Principality Rapier Marshal and the Royalty within a 72 hour period.
4. Any Guild Master of Fence, Provost, Journeyman or Free Scholar who has been suspended from combat at an event on two occasions within the last twelve months shall be immediately reduced to the Rank of Scholar and forfeit all rights within the Guild. Notice of an appeal against a decision of this type must be lodged with the appropriate Principality or Marches Marshal within 72 hours of the decision. This notification can be by electronic mail, surface mail postmarked within 72 hours of the infringement, or by telephone or fax.
5. Upon receiving notice of the first combat suspension of a Provost or Journeyman the Kingdom Rapier Marshal will inform the suspended person's authorising Guild Master of the infraction. At this time the Guild Master responsible for that person's training must discuss the reasons for the problem with the suspended person. After that discussion the Guild Master can recommend that the suspended person be reduced to the Rank of Free Scholar. If the person remains at their current Guild Rank and is later demoted to the Rank of Scholar as a result of a further combat suspension the Guild Master responsible for that student will be suspended from their position and rights within the Guild for one year from the date of the second combat suspension.

III. Types of Rapier Participant

1. Scholar

Definition

Anyone who participates in rapier at the most basic level.
People at this level can attend training sessions but are not authorised for unsupervised training  in any weapon type.

Qualification

There are no requirements for qualification at this level.
 
2. Free Scholar

Definition

People who have received at least one months training in fibreglass rapier and have demonstrated their proficiency with a single rapier. A Free Scholar may augment their qualification to include fighting with a variety of offhand weapons from the following list:
• Defensive
• buckler, cloak, hat, mail glove, baton
• Offensive
• offhand fibreglass dagger (main gauche), additional fibreglass rapier.

Basic Qualification

To be classed as a Free Scholar a candidate must demonstrate their ability to fight in a controlled fashion with a single rapier. The test (Prize) must be conducted by a Provost, and at least one other person of the rank of Free Scholar or above.

In order to qualify, the combatant must satisfy the following conditions:

1. The applicant shall demonstrate knowledge of the Rules of the Lists (as applicable to rapier combat) and this Code of Rules for Rapier Combat in the West Kingdom. This test can be administered as an oral or as a written examination at the discretion of the Provost conducting the test.
2. Perform a Prize (combat test) with at least one Free Scholar in which the following skills are tested:
1. Blow acknowledgment.
2. Proper blow delivery.
3. Good control in defense and when attacking.
4. Some ability in both offense and defense
5. Response to a hold
3. These will be tested in the following circumstances:
1. Both fighters standing
2. With the candidate fighting with the off hand
3. With the candidate fighting from the ground while the opponent stands
4. With both fighters fighting from the ground
5. With the candidate standing while the opponent fights from the ground.
The examining Provost and Free Scholars must feel the combatant does not pose a safety risk to him/herself or others if allowed to participate in Rapier Combat.

Offhand Qualifications

Offhand defensive weapon use is tested by a Provost and one other person of the rank of Free Scholar or above. The use of each of the offhand defensive weapons listed in these rules must be tested in normal combat. If it is the concensus of the examining officials that an appropriate level of skill has been demonstrated the applicants card will be endorsed to indicate that they can use offhand defensive weapons.

Offhand offensive weaponry use is tested in the same manner, and results in a similar endorsement. Note that fighting with two rapiers is often called "Case of Rapier" fighting. A Free Scholar must complete these offhand weapon qualifications before applying to be graded as a Journeyman.
 

3. Journeyman

Definition

A journeyman has at least three months training experience (twelve one hour sessions) with fibreglass weapons, and three months training experience (twelve one hour sessions) with schlager bladed rapiers. A journeyman is someone who has been certified to fight in tournaments with a schlager bladed rapier. Journeymen may have optional offhand combat qualifications for Flexi-dagger and Offhand Schlager Rapier (sometimes called case of rapiers) in the same way as Free Scholars.

Qualification

The qualification procedure is identical to that for a Free Scholar, except that schlager bladed rapiers are to be used and the examination is to be conducted by a Provost or Guild Master of Fence and at least two Journeymen of the Guild. All the same criteria must be met. Offhand weapons endorsements are also handled in exactly the same way as for Free Scholars. Journeymen must have a full set of primary and offhand weapons qualifications before they can apply to be ranked as a Provost.
 
4. Provost

Definition

Provosts are rapier combatants who have significant experience with the rules and all the types of equipment used for rapier combat. They are responsible for teaching Fibreglass combat and testing guild members and certifying them as Free Scholars. Provosts are also responsible for performing a thorough inspection of a rapier combatant's armor, weapons and defensive items and confirming that they comply with the West Kingdom Rapier Combat rules and standards in this document. Provosts are to inspect equipment for compliance before use on the field at any Official West Kingdom Rapier Combat Practice or Rapier Combat Event.

Qualification

The candidate must be examined in the requirements specified below, and recommended to the appropriate Kingdom/Principality/Marches Marshal by a Guild Master of Fence. Renewals are granted by acceptance of a renewal request by the proper authority (usually a Principality of Kingdom Rapier Marshal).
1. The following steps are required to become a Provost:
1. The applicant shall demonstrate knowledge of the Rules of the Lists and this Code of Rules for Rapier Combat in the West Kingdom to a degree appropriate to a Provost.
2. The applicant must have assisted (as a Journeyman) in the Marshaling of Rapier Combat and shown themselves capable performing all of the duties of a Provost. Additionally, he/she must have been present and participated in the playing of Prizes at the Rank of Free Scholars or above, at no less than two official events within the Kingdom.
3. The person shall retain all the fighting qualifications necessary for a Free Scholar by performing the necessary bi-annual renewal examination.
4. The person must demonstrate, to the satisfaction of a Guild Master of Fence, understanding of actual Period Fencing techniques, and some knowledge of a Period Fencing School/Manuals.
 
2. The following endorsements allow Provosts to oversee events, and admit Free Scholars to the rank of Journeyman. Such augmentations are granted to Provosts at the discretion of the Kingdom or Principality Rapier Marshal on the recommendation of a Guild Master of Fence who already holds the appropriate endorsement.
1. Marshal in Charge (RMIC)
2. Commission Journeymen (RCJ)
 
1. Guild Masters of Fence

Definition

Guild Masters of Fence are selected for elevation by the Crown and the Body of Guild Masters of Fence. Guild Masters of Fence are people who have made a very significant contribution to rapier in the West Kingdom. They have a wide range of experience in all forms of rapier play with all weapons forms. They are the only people authorised to teach schlager rapier combat in the Kingdom of the West. They are the only people who may commission Provosts

Qualification

To qualify, a candidate must be a Provost, must express interest to the Body of Guild Masters of Fence, and must be judged worthy by a majority of the Body of Guild Masters of Fence, and the Crown.  When this is true, they will be notified of a date approximately six months in advance on which they may Play their Guild Master's Prize.  During this six month period, the applicant is expected to prepare a written or oral presentation demonstrating knowledge and understanding of a Period Fencing school or some subject related to Period Fencing.  The applicant may not attempt to Play their Prize without making this presentation.

After completing the above requirement, the applicant will Play their Prize in accordance with the Royal Charter of the Guild.  An applicant who successful in Playing their Guild Master's Prize will be acknowledged as set forth in the Royal Charter of the Guild.  An applicant who is unsuccessful in playing their Guild Master's Prize may not make another attempt for a minimum of six months.

Guild Masters of Fence must qualify as fit for combat and for overseeing and coordinating rapier combat in the same way as Provosts of the Guild. If a Guild Master of Fence chooses not to maintain these certifications they retain the title and rank of Guild Master of Fence, but may not actively participate in any area of rapier activity. If they wish to requalify at a later date they must perform the same certification procedures as are required of Provosts.

4. Rapier Administration

Rapier marshals are Provosts or Guild Masters of Fence who perform the special administrative duties outlined below. For simplicity Provosts and appropriately certified Guild Masters of Fence are referred to as Provosts in the following section. All these special officers must make quarterly reports to their superiors. They will be informed of the due dates of these reports by their superior when their office is confirmed.

1. Kingdom Rapier Marshal:
1. Coordinates all Rapier Combat within the Kingdom of the West.
2. Maintains the Rules for Rapier Combat in consultation with the Kingdom Earl Marshal and the Crown.
3. Constitutes the final body of appeal in all disciplinary actions involving rapier combatants and marshals.
4. Is the final arbiter in conjunction with the Earl Marshal of the West and the Crown of the West in cases where a Principality or Marches rapier marshal makes an application for permanent revocation of a marshals warrant, or combatant authorization.
5. Maintains the roster of Rapier Marshals and Combatants.
6. The Kingdom Rapier Marshal can issue Rapier Combat Authorization Cards, and Rapier Marshal Authorizations.
2. Principality and Marches Rapier Marshals:
1. Coordinate Rapier Combat within their Principality.
2. Issue Rapier Combat Authorization Cards to members in their region.
3. Maintain the roster of authorized rapier marshals and combatants for their region.
4. Serve as the head of the disciplinary committee of their region, and is responsible for implementing disciplinary procedures up to and including six month suspensions of authorization.
5. Are responsible for forwarding information on injuries and disciplinary actions to the Kingdom Rapier Marshal.
3. Branch Rapier Marshals:
1. Coordinate Rapier Combat in their local branch (Baronies, Shires, etc).
2. Ensure that qualified Provost is appointed as the "Rapier Marshal in Charge" of any event sponsored by his/her Branch.
3. Ensure that the Rapier Marshal in Charge of each event sponsored by that Branch files all the necessary reports within 30 days of the event.
4. Report to the appropriate Kingdom or Principality Marshal
5. Forward warrant and authorisation documents to their superiors so that warrant/authorisation cards can be issued in a timely fashion.
6. Report breaches of the safety regulations and disciplinary actions taken by the RMIC's of events to ensure that further disciplinary action can be taken where appropriate.
4. Rapier Marshals in Charge:
1. Are a Provost with a RMIC endorsement selected by the Branch Rapier Marshal of a sponsoring Branch to oversee all aspects of safety and proper conduct of rapier combat at a proposed event.
2. Select the Provosts to assist with an event.
3. May suspend combatants from fighting for the duration of the event.
4. May not participate in any Rapier Combat during the event.
5. Need not be constantly present in the vicinity of all rapier combat, but must be readily accessible to any Marshal of a particular bout at the event for which they are RMIC.
6. Must submit an event report which includes:
1. The name of the Rapier Marshal in Charge and the names of all the Provosts who assisted.
2. A list of all prizes played, whether successful or not, and the results of those attempts.
3. The names of all the participants in Rapier Combat.
4. A description of any problems or disputes that occurred during the fighting, and of any injuries that occurred.
5. A list of those combatants who were suspended from fighting for the duration of the event, the reasons for the suspensions and recommendations for any higher level disciplinary action they consider might be required.

1. Equipment Inspection
1. At least one Provost must be present to perform equipment inspections.
2. No combatant shall participate in a bout, melee or other combat without having had all equipment and armor pass inspection. If any equipment is found to be unsafe or not in compliance with the rules then the combatant may not participate further in the combat until the equipment in question has been replaced, repaired or discarded to the satisfaction of the Rapier Marshal in Charge.
3. The Provosts conducting equipment inspection shall not damage a combatant's equipment unduly, such as by bending the combatant's weapon blade to test flexibility or curvature, performing the SCA Standard Fencing Armor Test (SFAT) (see Appendix II for test procedure) on the combatant's protective equipment. A list of materials which are known to satisfy the SFAT requirements are listed in an Appendix.
1. If such testing is deemed to be necessary, then it is preferable that the SFAT be performed on a sample of the combatant's protective equipment, if the combatant desires to use the equipment in question.
2. When checking for groin protection the Provost shall ask the combatant to self-test.
4. If any equipment is found to be unsafe or not in compliance with the rules it shall be clearly marked in a manner to easily identify it as having failed an inspection.
1. A weapon is to be have three X's etched into it close to the hilt (or be painted with a bright color if the combatant intends to appeal the decision on the blade) only after two Provosts have inspected the weapon and agreed upon it failing inspection.
2. This does not apply to Fibreglass weapons that are designed to be repaired.
5. Masks shall be inspected annually with a 12 kg punch and, annotated on the bib of the mask. Masks shall also be visually inspected prior to being used in any Rapier combat.
1. A mask that fails shall be marked noticeably with an indelible marker as having failed after two Provosts have inspected the mask using a 12 kg punch test and agree with the results. (It is recommended that the mask be crushed at the discretion of the combatant.)
2. If the 12 kg punch is not available then a field test may be performed in an attempt to determine the safety level of the mask. A normal field test is look for any dents in the mask surface. If there are observable coin sized of larger depressions in the surface of the mesh then the mask should be failed. Second one should press firmly on the surface of the mask mesh in the section that covers the face, and observe the movement of the mesh. If the wires move against one another and the mask mesh is easily depressed then the mask should not be used until it has been checked with a punch tester and the punch resistance determined in a controlled manner.
6. Armor that fails any test described in this document fails to meet the required standards for participation in rapier combat in the West Kingdom and may not be used.
7. An appeal can be made on any armor, mask or weapon that fails the field inspection. Such appeals are addressed to the Kingdom/Principality Rapier Marshal who will make a final decision prior to marking the equipment as failed.
8. Armor may be re-presented to the inspecting Provost or Kingdom Rapier Marshal or Principality Rapier Marshal after it has been modified or repaired to meet the armor standards.
2. Conduct of Combat
1. All Fencing in the Kingdom of the West is to be based on actual, documented Period Fencing, for one on one combat only.  While period style Tournaments are allowed, melee fencing and fencing with multiple opponents is expressly and completely prohibited.
2. Because of the nature of the weapons being used, Provosts, and combatants should pay special attention to tips missing or broken, and for badly bent or fatigued blades.
3. The Provost  supervising a bout or melee shall enforce the rules and conventions governing rapier combat. If infractions occur during a bout, the Provost in supervision shall warn the combatants involved and take steps to prevent their recurrence. If no other solutions are workable, the combatant responsible will be deemed defeated.
4. All infractions of this type shall be reported to the Rapier Marshal in Charge, as they must be included in the event report.
5. The Rapier Marshal in Charge may suspend a combatant and remove him/her from the competition field for the duration of the event for any of the following reasons. (If the Rapier Marshal in Charge is not available during the bout, the supervising Provost may take this action, thereafter reporting to the Rapier Marshal in Charge.)
1. The combatant has made his/her third violation of the rules during a bout.
2. The combatant, through demonstration of behavior on the field, poses a risk to the safety of him/herself or others and the supervising Provost believes that the combatant shall continue to pose a risk regardless of verbal warning.
3. The combatant refuses to obey the legal commands of the Provosts supervising the combat.
6. Any Rapier Combatant who has been suspended may not participate further in any Rapier Combat until the suspension has been resolved. For such resolution the appropriate West Kingdom procedures shall be used.
7. Unsafe or excessive force blows shall be discussed on the field, and failing a mutually satisfactory resolution, the aggrieved combatant shall write an official letter of complaint to the Kingdom/Principality Rapier Marshal. Three letters of complaint of separate instances shall automatically suspend the individual from combat, until the factual basis of the complaints can be established by the Kingdom/Principality Rapier Marshal.
8. At the end of a combat the supervising Provost or Guild Masters of Fence shall ask whether the combatants are satisfied. Any combatant who leaves the field without stating a problem is declaring their satisfaction with the outcome of the combat. Disagreements with the Marshalate shall be resolved off the field through the appropriate West Kingdom grievance and appeal procedures.
9. Supervising Provosts and Guild Masters are responsible for reporting any injury requiring the attention of a health professional (e.g. Doctor, Nurse, Chiropractor, or Paramedic) to the Kingdom Rapier Marshal within 24 hours. The Kingdom Rapier Marshal will investigate the incident and provide a report to the Kingdom Earl Marshal within 10 days of the incident.
10. If for any reason it becomes impossible to conduct Rapier Combat safely, and in accordance with the rules, or if any officer acting with their due authority removes sanction from an event, the Rapier Marshal In Charge shall cooperate to halt all Rapier Combat at the event. If the Rapier Marshal in Charge makes this determination but is unable to stop Rapier Combat then he/she must withdraw sanction for Rapier Combat from the event. This action and why it was taken must be included in the event report, and all efforts made to immediately contact the Kingdom (and/or, if applicable, Principality) Rapier Marshal and sponsoring Branch Seneschal
11. All Rapier Combat at an event must be attended by a Provost or Guild Master in supervision of that bout. The Rapier Marshal in Charge shall delegate additional Provosts or Guild Masters to supervise the Marshaling of each bout if more than one is being run at any given time:
1. Each bout of  2 combatants  shall be supervised by at least 1 Provost. If the bout is part of a tournament it is recommended that there be an additional Provost.
2. If there are not enough Provosts available then the number of bouts being run at any given time must be reduced to match the number of Provosts. In no case is a bout to be run without a Provost to supervise the combat
12. As a courtesy, visitors to the West Kingdom may participate in Rapier Combat without being a member of the Royal Guild of Fence of the West, but shall first be instructed in this Code of Rules and meet the following requirements:
1. The visitor must present proof that he/she is currently authorized Rapier Combatants in his/her home Kingdom.
2. The visitor must agree to use and be responsible for knowing the West Kingdom rules and conventions.
3. The visitor must meet West Kingdom equipment standards, with the exception that he/she may be allowed to use the armor standards of his/her home Kingdom, at the assumption of his/her own risk.
4. If a visitor resides in the West Kingdom for more than three months, then he/she is expected to apply for standing in the Guild, in the standard West Kingdom Manner, with the ability to play a Free Scholar's Prize immediately.  Any further advancement within the Guild must be in accordance with, and on the same time frame as, the Royal Charter of the Guild.  Failure to join the Guild and adhere to it's standards, rules and Royal Charter, after three months of residency, will result in a disqualification from participation in West Kingdom Rapier activities and events for a period of not less than one year
5. The Kingdom of the West Royal Guild of Fence is devoted to the study and recreation of actual Period Fencing and Rapier related Arts and Sciences, not modern fencing, or modern interpretations of period fencing.  As a result, the Kingdom of the West does not recognize emigrant fencing awards, acknowledgments or recognitions for fencing/rapier combat activities.  Furthermore, the Kingdom of the West specifically does not recognize and will not participate in the "white scarf treaty".

Combatants should realize that the blunt, flexible blades used are far more likely to glance off the body or mask than the rigid, razor sharp rapier and dagger blades they represent. Any contact between the body and a blade would likely cause a cut or slight wound, even if the thrust or cut was insufficient to cause major injury. To increase realism, pageantry, and the enjoyment of combatants and spectators, the following additional conventions may be used. These conventions, unlike the preceding, are voluntary and optional. No combatant should feel required to use them, nor may not by using them be a cause for censure.

1. Changes in counting conventions: - Be aware that some scenarios may require the use of these conventions by all combatants who wish to participate, for example:
1. In a "First Blood" tournament a scratch is sufficient to determine victory.
2. In a "Second Blood" tournament a combatant is defeated when wounded with a single valid blow.
3. In a "School Scenario", which is designed to represent practice matches within a salle, the bout goes to the first touch to a valid kill area, regardless of how light it may be.
4. Other ideas for adding theatre include:
• Painful scratches: every small slice and cut would hurt and bleed, even if not a valid blow. Combatants may choose to hold the area with the off hand while fighting to slow the bleeding. There is no requirement to keep holding the cut. Bleeding may slow, then start up again, and the bleeding and pain is not necessarily enough to prevent the combatant from using his/her off hand for other things. Touching the wound occasionally adds immensely to the "feel" of the fight, however.
• Cumulative damage: three touches to the same area may be sufficient to result in a valid blow to that area, even if each touch was insufficient in itself to be a valid blow. On a limb, this cumulative damage might disable the limb; on the torso or head, cumulative damage might cause the combatant to faint from loss of blood. In some Kingdoms this is called the "three touch rule".
• Blood loss: strenuous exertion after a serious wound may result in fainting. If a combatant is wounded with a valid blow which is non-killing (a draw cut to a non- critical area or a thrust to a limb) and is not slain or disinclined thereafter, the strenuous exertion of combat and continued loss of blood may cause fainting. This may also occur when a wounded combatant receives another non-killing valid blow, to the same limb or otherwise. To simulate this effect, combatants who are wounded and fight for some time thereafter without result (or are wounded again) may decide that they are disinclined to con tinue due to loss of blood, fainting, dizziness, etc. The length of time involved is solely up to the individual combatant. In actual duels in period some fighters were wounded and fought on for a long time without detriment due to loss of blood, while others were forced to quickly concede defeat. Another type of convention doesn't appear as a scenario but rather as a style and type of attack.
2. Tip Cuts - Tip cuts may be used in practice or tournament by agreement of both combatants and the supervising Marshal. The following standards must be adhered to when using tip cuts:
1. A valid tip cut is to draw the point of the blade a minimum of 3 inches (76 mm) across an opponents body. As with a thrust, only minimal, but noticeable, pressure need be maintained. Only tip cuts to critical areas need be called, these areas are:
• The neck, especially at the front of the throat and the sides of the jugular veins.
• The brachial arteries, on the inside of the upper arm between shoulder and elbow.
• The femoral arteries, on the inside of the upper leg between groin and knee.
• The abdomen, between the bottom of the rib cage and the pelvis.
2. Blows to areas other than those given above should be treated as cumulative damage only.

1. SCA Standard Fencing Armor Test (SFAT)
1. The testing blade shall be a broken standard (non-electric, non-maraging) epee blade, with a typical "flat" break (not a jagged or pointed).
2. Lay the material to be tested on a penetrable surface such as the ground or a block of ethyl foam (used for archery targets).
3. Holding the broken foil blade in both hands, punch the material four times, increasing the force each time.
4. After each punch, examine the material.
• If it has been completely penetrated, or seriously damaged, it fails the test.
• If there is no damage, or only the top layer has been damaged, then it passes the test.

1. 4 layers trigger cloth.
2. 4 oz leather (Approx. 1.5 mm thick) D. Tip Attachments

1. Wrap fiberglass tape around and over the "rounded" tip.
2. Place a glue or resin plug inside the blunt.
3. Ease on the blunt while the resin or glue is still liquid.
4. Place a couple of strips of fiberglass tape down the sides of the blunt and 1.5" of the blade.
5. The bottom 2/3 of the blunt is spiral wrapped with fiberglass tape down to the longitudinal tape.
6. Cover the entire tip with a brightly colored electrical tape.

Fibreglass Rapier Construction Method One

Constructing a Fibreglass rapier (based on the techniques developed by Edmund the Lame).

What you will need:

1. 6mm (diameter) fibreglass rod (6mm is approx 1/4 inch, 25mm = 1 inch (approx))
2. 4.5mm (diameter) fibreglass rod
3. 3mm (diameter) fibreglass rod
- fibreglass rod is available from plastic/fibreglass manufacturers in 6 metre (yard) lengths. Shorter lengths can be purchased (cut to length) from kite supply shops but these are more expensive (retail vs wholesale).
4. 6mm rubber stopper
- We use soft rubber stoppers designed for chair legs. These are available from local hardware stores. A slightly larger internal diameter is OK.
5. Fibreglass tape
- this is a plastic tape impregnated with fibreglass strands. If you can get it, the cross hatch (#) patterned tape is better than the tape with the fibres going in a single direction. It blunts knife blades quickly and sticks to itself better than anything else. Available at some hardware stores.
6. Duct tape
- The normal US duct tape is not the same as that used in Australia; their's is reinforced/tearable tape which is banned for use in this method of constructing rapiers - These instructions assume a silver grey vinyl duct tape.
7. Electrical tape
- Colored plastic tape. We tend to use red or yellow. The purpose of the tape is to make the rubber stopper visible to the *marshal(s)* during combat, not your opponent, so any color acceptable to them will do. Available at hardware stores, super markets, garages etc etc.
8. Hot melt glue
- Your basic heat-it-and-it-melts craft glue.
9. Sandpaper
- Medium to fine grade. A single sheet should be more than enough.

Equipment

1. Safety Gear
- If you are going to be cutting and finishing fibreglass then you need to use adequate eye, respitory and skin protection while doing so. You will be generating a very fine fibreglass powder that you do not want to inhale or get in your eyes. Keeping it away from your skin is also a very good idea.
2. Craft Knife or Scissors.
- Available all sorts of places. Required to cut various lengths of tape. You can use a craft knife to cut fibreglass rod but it's not a good idea. A fine hacksaw blade works best.
3. Hilt/guard materials
- Some people use a small stainless steel bowl with holes punched in it for blade and quillons, some just use quillons. Some build up the grip with off cuts of rod and tape, wire, leather. Others use a piece of hollowed out dowl. My personal preference is for a pair of quillons, and a handle built up by wrapped tape.

Some Definitions

R = length of rapier (including hilt) in inches

X = R - 7"

Y = R - 11"

Z = R - 15"

R = blade lengt+ 4" handle sinkage allowance. (adjust for sinkage allowance but anything less than 4" doesn't give enough stability. - with your 'wrapped' handle version you'd need to have the sinkage allowance almost the whole length of the handle so I can see how you came to your version of R. I allow an extra 1" in the handle for lead counter weighting as I use a 5" handle so R is Blade length + 4")

X = R - 7" (the length of the 3mm past the 6mm is ALWAYS 7" - 8" produces a tip that hits too light & is very whippy. 6" produces a tip that hits harder but breaks much more often)

Y = R - 11" (4" is the 'sinkage' of the 3mm alongside the 6mm to give it enough grip & stability - longer is OK but wasteful & shorter doesn't give enough stability)

Z = R - 15" (got this right but by default - the extra inch of the 4.5mm spine stiffener provides for additional rigidity in this section of the blade not necessary & probably undesirable as it takes some of the bend out of the last 1/3 of the blade on impact)

Construction

Before commencing ensure that you have taken adequate safety precautions.

You should not allow any exposed skin to come into contact with the fibreglass (rod or dust) and you should be wearing a filter mask to prevent inhalation of the dust particles. Eye protection should also be worn to prevent dust particles getting into your eyes.

Cut a length of 6mm rod X" long.

Cut 2 lengths of 4mm rod Y" long.

Cut a length of 4mm rod Z" long.

Cut 2 lengths of 3mm rod 12" long.

(A fine hacksaw blade is best for cutting the rod.)

Lightly sand the ends of each length to create a bevelled edge. This helps prevent the edge of the rod from cutting through the tape later. Cut a few short lengths of fibreglass tape and split them length wise into strips about 1/3" to 1/2" wide. Stick them somewhere handy.

Take the two Y" long pieces of 4mm rod and lay one on either side of the 6mm rod. Tack them together using two or three lengths of the pre-cut tape. The three pieces of rod need to butte tightly against one another. You should now have a fairly flat cross sectioned blade. Run a thin trickle of glue down the grooves. Try and avoid any "lumps" in the glue as these will form hard points that will break through the tape.

Take the third length of 4mm rod and lay it on top of the 6mm rod. Tack it in place using the pre-cut tape. You should now have something roughly triangular in cross-section - o oOo Run hot melt glue down the gaps/grooves. Again try and avoid any lumps. If possible try and flatten the glue while it is still warm (be careful not to burn yourself) so that you get a more triangular cross section. Place a large drop of glue at the end of the Z" length of 4mm rod to create a slope. This will make the transition from triangular cross section to flat cross section easier.

Wrap this transition point in 2 to 3 layers of fibreglass tape. Wrap a small piece of fibreglass tape around the protruding 6mm rod (tip end). Leaving the Hilt section (tang) bare, wrap the blade in fibreglass tape, using a spiral wrap. Leave the ends of the two (Y length) 4mm rods bare. Take one of the 3mm lengths and lay it next to the exposed 6mm rod, so that the tip is butted against the 4mm. Tack it in place using the pre-cut tape. Do the same on the other side with the second 3mm length. Wrap the join in several layers (5-6) of fibre-glass tape.

Bind the two pieces of 3mm rod together with fibreglass tape to form a point. Allow a small overlap (1/8") of tape to protrude beyond the edge of the 3mm rods. Fold this down to form a pad of tape at the end of the blade. This is to help prevent the fibreglass rod from cutting through the rubber stopper.

Partially fill (2/3 - 3/4) the rubber stopper with glue and then push the point of the blade in (about half way). Wipe away any excess glue, again being careful not to burn yourself.

Bind the rubber stopper to the end of the rapier using fibreglass tape. Cover the tip (stopper) in electrical tape.

Now you have to decide on the type of hilt/guard you want. Basic quillons are easiest. A simple cup hilt with quillons is not too hard either. See below.

Wrap the blade in duct tape using a spiral wrap. Stop just below the point where the 3mm rod joins the 4mm rod. Starting just above this junction continue wrapping to the tip. Wrap the junction at 90 degrees to the blade. The reason for stopping/re-starting the wrap like this is that most of the flexibility is in the 3mm tip and this is where the blade is most likely to break. The tip is designed to be replaceable. By stopping the main wrap just below the start of the tip it makes replacement/repair easier.

The completed blade should very easily bend 90+ degrees along the flat. The forte is nearly rigid and can be used to parry quite effectively. The blades tend to be very light, and therefore quick. The highly flexible tip means that "heavy" shots rarely leave a bruise and the tip tends to break before any real damage is done. When coming up against a novice (trainee) fencer I would much rather see them using one of these than a schlager.

Quillons.

Take a length of 6mm rod and cut it to the required length. Cut a length of 4mm rod 1" shorter than the 6mm rod. Mark the centre point of each piece. Lay the two pieces side by side, so that the centre points are together. Bind the two pieces together at one end. Position the quillons so that the centre point is over the blade. The 6mm rod should be against the flat side of the blade, the 4mm rod should be against the V shaped side.

Now bind the other end of the quillon. This should lightly clamp it in place. Using fibreglass tape, proceed to bind the quillons as tightly as possible to the blade. Hot melt glue "pumped" into the cavity helps strengthen this join, and to balance the weapon by adding weight to the hilt. I usually place a rubber stopper over each end as a safety feature (the quillons *do* come in contact with yourself and your opponent on occassion - I prefer to soften the blow a little if possible).

Complete the hilt by either building it up to a comfortable diameter with tape (or leather or wire ...). If you wish to you can hollow out pieces of dowel, modify tool handles (eg Rasp) etc and use these. In either case the fibreglass should be totally covered.

Cup hilt.

Obtain a small stainless steel bowl roughly 6" in diameter. Try army surplus, discount or camping stores.

Punch holes in the sides of the bowl for the quillons (6mm). Punch a triangular hole in the base of the bowl for the blade to pass through. Ensure that the alignment of the blade/quillon holes is correct. Try and ensure that there are no sharp edges where the blade passes throught the hilt. Padding this area with leather or extra tape is a good idea.

Cut two pieces of 6mm rod (one for each quillon). Mount a rubber stopper on the end of each and wrap in tape. Assemble the hilt and tape together. Taping the blade above and below the cup will ensure that it doesn't move too much. This bit is very fiddly and may require a couple of goes. It may also be an idea to assemble the cup hilt before attaching the rapier tip, so that the grip can be completed, then the cup hilt slid on from the top.

No quillons.

I have seen at least one fencer (Viscountess Murghein ni Ghrainne) who prefers not to have any form of quillon or guard at all. It seems to work quite well for her.

Edmund the Lame

Elizabethan gentleman & adventurer

Fibreglass Rapier Construction Method Two

In Golden Rivers, one of our memebers, Joel Winter, has developed the following rapier construction plans that are quick easy and inexpensive. He has done extensive testing to be sure they are safe.The directions are below and three drawings(gifs) are attached. Xeno

Parts List

1. Fiberglass Rod. 1/4" round stock of acrylic bonded non divergent fiberglass rod in 6 to 61/2 ft lengths white in color and is about $2.00 at plastic or fiberglass supply stores like "Tap Plastics"..
2. Threaded Lamp Pipe. 3/8" pipe thread or 1/8 IP. threaded hollow pipe called "All Thread" or Lamp Rod, threaded the entire length comes in 3 ft lengths and is about $5.00 at hardware stores in the lighting section.
3. Rubber Arrow Blunts. 11/32-5/16" or similar sizes and different colors at archery stores about $1.00 each.
4. Nuts and Washers. 3/8" pipe thread or 1/8" pipe thread for the threaded lamp rod at hardware stores; packages of various types about $2.00.
5. Vinyl Duct Tape. About 2" wide in 20 ft rolls about $4.50 a roll at tool or hardware stores.
6. Colored Tape. Brightly colored tape, material is unimportant as its purpose is to show if the tip is gone. Price variable. Available at hardware stores.

Tools and Materials

1. Dremel or a drill with a fine cutting tool or very fine saw blade that won't fray the fiberglass.
2. Hack saw or metal cutting tool for lamp pipe.
3. Epoxy 2 ton or a slow setting; in the smallest size at hardware and most stores under $4.00.
4. Sand paper 180 to 100 grit 1 sheet around $1.50.

Construction

First determine the total desired length of the weapon, then cut with a hack saw the threaded lamp pipe to determine the stiffness according to the length of the weapon. The longer the pipe the stiffer the weapon will be. For an average size weapon of 36 to 40 in.,a 10 to 12 in. piece should be cut and used to simulate the stiffness of a foil, longer pipe is needed to simulate a heavier weapon.

Then you will need to taper the inside of the pipe opening that the fiberglass rod will go in with a tapered shaped bit, a drill bit or a small file. This is done to let the fiberglass flex inside the threaded pipe to prevent breakage .

Next slide the fiberglass rod into the tapered end of the lamp pipe about 4 to 8 in. then put a mark with a pen on the rod at the tip of lamp pipe. Without removing the rod next measure the determined blade length, allowing 6 to 8 in. for the grip, from the bottom end of the lamp pipe to the tip of the blade on the fiberglass and mark it. Then you need to cut the fiberglass rod at the marked tip. Cut it with a dremel and cutting wheel to make a flat clean non frayed cut, some other tools will cut similarly.

Then take the vinyl duct tape and centering over the mark made from the end of the lamp pipe and wrap twice.

Next lightly sand the 4 to 8 in. of the fiberglass behind the tape just enough to let the epoxy stick. Then mix a small amount of epoxy and coat the sanded area of the rod. While rotating it, slide it into the tapered end of the lamp pipe all the way in until half of the tape is in the pipe. Let it dry for at least 2 hours before you continue working, and over night to cure.

Then you will need a bell of a rigid material either from a fencing supply store or you can make your own from leather; plastic; or pound out of metal. All of which must have a drilled hole big enough to slide over the lamp pipe.

Next thread on a nut and washer using thread lock compound if you wish and then slide on the bell. Then you will need to determine the type of handle to use like plastic pipe, wooden dowel with a hole drilled in it or wrapped with leather ect. leaving room for end pieces or weights making sure that the bell is secured in place by nuts and washers.
 

*NOTE: that this setup is extremely flexible and is able to be customized to the users availability of parts and desired function and taste. If the blade were to break the remaining rod can be punched or drilled out of the lamp pipe and reused. once you have a setup you like some extra parts taken to a event make for a fast and cheap repairs.

Next spiral wrap the blade with the vinyl duct tape. be sure to cover the base of the blade, then slide the rubber blunt over the tape and fiberglass making sure its tight if not put layers of tape under it.

Now tape at least half way over the arrow blunt with brightly colored contrasting tape.

Now you have a extremely safe weapon that posses absolutely no risk whatsoever of puncture! the fiberglass being bonded by acrylic makes a much more flexible blade than a epoxy bonded fiberglass. The bare uncoated fiber glass rod if it were to be broken will safely fray into long soft fibers similar to rattan. The completed acrylic coated and shrink wrapped fiberglass if it were to be broken will just go limp and remain intact with no protruding edge.

It takes a severe amount of flex to break the rod almost in a complete circle tip to tip. This is beyond a feasible limit in a attack with a normal blow resulting in a three inch bend only. You shouldn't be allowed to strike an opponent any harder.

This weapon will also flex in any direction without damaging the blade. It also has no edges "it's round". This weapon will also withstand oven and freezer temperature or any climate suitable for humans.

The total cost of making this type of fiberglass weapon is under $20.00 and is very easy and quick to make. this makes a easy way for anyone to try or practice a safe form of combat with a minimum amount of protective gear.

I hope this will give people a fun and safe weapon to practice with that every one can afford and make themselves.

YOEL WINTERBORN mka JOEL WINTER
edited to current West Kingdom standards with author's permission by Xeno
 

This Royal Charter herein sets forth, for all posterity, the powers, rights and privileges of the said Royal Guilde of Fence, and doth specify all things that must be specified in regard to Guild Ranks, Qualifications, and the Examination of candidates for all the specified Ranks of the Guild, Furthermore, this Royal Charter empowers the Ancient Guild Masters of Fence, as specified Herein, and the Guild Masters of Fence who may join their Company as allowed for Herein, to do all such things as are necessary and Lawful to bring these Artes and Sciences into good repute throughout the Kingdom of the West, and the Knowne World.

Guild Ranks

1. Scholar
2. Free Scholar
3. Journeyman
4. Provost
5. Guild Master of Fence

In addition to qualify for each rank a candidate must play their prize against at least two opponents who have already attained to Rank being sought. These opponents and the Guild Master of Fence or Provost conducting the examination must agree the the candidate has fulfilled the requirements for qualification to the new Rank.
A failed Prize may not be re-fought until a full three months has elapsed since the most recent failed attempt.

Lord Guild Master of Fence

Scholar

Free Scholar

Journeyman

Provost

Guild Master of Fence

We charge these Ancient Guild Masters of Fence and all other Guild Masters of Fence who may join them to properly bring to our notice all other Provosts worthy of the title Guild Master of Fence that We may consider them for elevation to the rank of Guild Master of Fence within the Kingdom of the West. Upon which decision such Provosts as have been so invited may play their Prize before the Crown or its duly authorised representative and be elevated to the Rank of Guild Master of Fence within the Guild. This position being confirmed by our letters and a Grant of Arms within the Kingdom of the West. So too do we confirm the rights and titles of these Ancient Guild Masters and confirm unto them a Grant of Arms within the Kingdom of the West.

Each Guild Master of Fence shall have all the rights and prerogatives laid out in the Rules of Rapier Combat in the Kingdom of the West. A Guild Master may wear a sash of Black cloth bearing the Badge of the Guild in Gold as a symbol of this rank. A Guild Master may also choose to wear a black Glove bearing the Badge of the Guild in Gold as a symbol of this Rank within the Guild. It is the solemn duty of all  Guild Masters to teach any who come to them for instruction, and to support the endeavours of all members of the Guild whatever their Rank, and to provide to all citizens with the means for advancement within the Guild, that being the provision of Knowledge through teaching.
 
 It is the duty of the individual Guild Masters of Fence to bring to the attention of the Body of Guild Masters of Fence any Provost who, by his exceptional accomplishments in the study and teaching of the Arte and Science of Period Fencing, and his efforts within the Guild, grace of character, and skill at arms, may be worthy of Playing his Guild Master's Prize.
 
After due deliberation by the Body of Guild Masters of Fence, such applicants as are deemed worthy shall be brought to the attention of the Crown by the Lord Guild Master of Fence, or his duly appointed representative.  If the Crown concurs that the person has the necessary attributes, the Body of Guild Masters shall ask the Crown to nominate a date within a six month, upon which the applicant may play his Guild Master's Prize.  This Prize shall be duly publicized, and it is the solemn duty of the Guild Masters of Fence to endeavour to be present to
Play the Prize with the applicant, if they are at all able.  At least two Guild Masters of Fence must be present for the Prize to be played.
 
During the six month, prior to the applicant's Prize, the candidate will prepare either a document, or an oral presentation demonstrating their knowledge of at least one Period School or Treatise of Fence, to be presented to the Crown, or it's duly appointed representative prior to the commencement of their Master's Prize.
 
The Guild Master's Prize shall take the form of bouts, to the first touch, with as many Guild Masters of Fence as wish to try the skills of the applicant.  Each applicant must be tested in each of the categories
of combat specified in the Rules of Rapier Combat in the Kingdom of the West.  Upon the conclusion of the Playing of the Prize, the Guild Masters Present, and the Crown or its duly authorized representative
shall convene a meeting to determine whether or not the applicant has successfully Played the Prize.
 
Should the applicant be judged as having successfully Played his Guild Master's Prize, he will be created a Guild Master of Fence at the next Royal Court, using the Ceremony as specified in this Royal Charter.

Ceremony for Creation of a Guild Master of Fence

Let all here present know that it is Their Majesties' intention to entertain a Petition from Their Royal Guild of Fence.  Let ______, the Lord Guild Master of Fence (or Let______, duly appointed representative
of _______, Lord Guild Master of Fence) present the Petition to Their Majesties.
 
<LGMF or Representative presents Scroll to Crown>
 
LGMF or Representative:

It is the Petition of the Body of Guild Masters of Fence, of the Western Royal Guild of Fence, that ________, a Provost of the Guild who has successfully Played his Guild Masters' Prize, be named a Guild Master of Fence by the Crown, and be granted by Royal Letters the right to teach the Noble Arte and Science of Fence of Fence within the Kingdom of the West.
 
King (if present for Prize):

Having Ourselves observed the notable skills of ______, and having found _______, to be worthy as an example for others in this Noble Endeavour, We do acknowledge this petition.
 
OR
 
King (if not present for Prize):

Having had the notable skills of _______, witnessed and attested by Our representative, __________, and thus hearing that ________ is worthy as an example for others in the Noble Endeavour, We do acknowledge this petition.
 
King:

___________, We do grant unto you the rank of Guild Master of Fence, within Our Royal Guild of Fence in the Kingdom of the West.  Wear this sash, and these gloves, entokened with the badge of Our Guild, that all may recognize your achievements.
 
Herald:

Let all know that ________, and ________, the Noble and Undoubted King and Queen of the West do hereby Grant unto _________ the rank of Guild  Master of Fence within the Royal Guild of Fence of the Kingdom of the West, and herewith confirm their sole and unique right to bear arms by Letters of a Grant of Arms in the Kingdom of the West, and do charge them with the duties and responsibilities of a Guild Master of Fence as set forth in the Royal Charter of that Guild.
 
Three Cheers for the newest Guild Master of Fence...!