Climbing at Åland 26 Maj 2003


One of Uppsala's better crags in a real nice setting. Not that high but nice cracks and faces with tiny balancy knobs, smearing works excellent unless it has rained recently. The days these pics are from had rain in the morning but decent wind and plenty of sunshine was not enough to dry up the shady parts of mossy crag. Mossy? Well there are access issues but now we climb again after a three year period of rest.

It is only about 25 km out from Uppsala.


We set a top rope to get a feel for the damp rock. Me absailing down in runners, no grip with them.

I bullied my way to getting the first go. We managed to find a nice zikzag way up the face. I liked the route. Enough to put it together on my second go, the two-handed crimp got a bit desperate when both feet slipped of but I hang in there. I'd grade it around 5+/6- probably, mainly due to the convenient easy start and top out. All the hard stuff is in the middle without any scare factor. Slippery when wet. ;-)

Torbjörn tried the face but did a different and more shady alternative on his second go. We never checked if these variants actually exist in the guide.

Classic ass shot. Preparing for my OS lead of the neighbouring 4+ crack. My courage shifted from high in the car, to low when I saw the wet rock, and then back to high after putting together the face route.
Three people are good to have, but using magic Torbjörn was able to belay and take pictures at the same time. After Torbjörn cleaned this we had to go back to Uppsala...

Trying to pose thoughtfully rather than impatiently.

This part was a bit tricky to get past, not really knowing how good feet you could get. I was really happy when I got there. And placed a decent nut before going on.

I forgot to bring something to munch on as well as water ; compensating by checking the nutrient value of the nuts.

After a killer friend placement I joked about taking the long run-out. Well, I like to put in gear and I wasn't about to miss my chanses.