Climbing at Ågelsjön 14 June 2003


Lots of crags near the scenic lake Ågelsjön outside Norrköping. Definitly more than 2 hrs drive from Uppsala, especially with the convenient pizza stop!

We had planned to stop and camp here on our way towards Göteborg, but rain made us drive down south after a few hours of nice climbing.


Warm up on a grade 5 next to Silversurfaren. Tobias leads.

Great pic availiable for your desktop. ;-)

Felicia (6-?) got a completly different name after I slipped and started to bleed. Cowardice is not a good companion for leaders.

The shaded spot makes pretty crap colour photos. It is not clear why my armes are doing some kind of chicken thing at this pic. Midsummer games proably.

We sent the poor camera up with the rope. I was afraid the guys would leave me tied to to top otherwise.

Torbjörn also leads Felicia, but without a need to use another name or to stop at strategic positions to rest.

The final key move towards happiness.

The same for Tobias. These guys are strong, I took two rests.
Silversurfaren is Swedens easiest grade 7 according to some people who haven't climbed more than half of the Swedish grade sevens. I agree and I have only climbed that one!

It has a steep beginning. Torbjörn led it in his haydays and soloed it to show us the line. Or digital photo editing...

When we arrived and did the warm-up a local hang here and complained about sharp holds. I suppose he rounded them of since we didn't have that problem. Hard crimping really hurt the joints of our fingers.

After the debacle with Felicia I got to the end of this one in a single run, but didn't understand where to go at the end and probably stopped a move short of the great top rope onsight award of the day.

I liked it. Check this static solution of an early crux. Hint: Key right foot hold.

Tobias disliked (in strong terms) the crimpyness of Silversurfaren and took on a more properly graded Röda Tår (Red toes) at 6+.

Last but not least. The ass shot!